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how to buy a puppy ????

06 May 2009 | by | Posted in: Wag Wiki

Buying a Puppy

I. Introduction

Buying a puppy can be a very emotional decision. At least that’s what many breeders want it to be. If you learn only one thing from this report, it is this: All puppies are cute! What does that mean to you? Ugly dogs were cute as puppies. Ill-bred dogs were cute as puppies. Unhealthy dogs were cute as puppies. Puppies that don’t conform at all to breed standards were cute as puppies. If you buy a puppy based on how cute, or cuddly, or playful it is, you stand a good chance of ending up with a puppy that grows into a dog you are very unhappy with. Or worse, it could grow into a dog with health problems that cost you a small fortune in money and tremendous heartache. I have spent my entire life as a dog owner and the last ten years I have been breeding dogs. I have bought about a dozen puppies. Some of what I know I learned the hard way. Some I have learned from the hundreds of breeders, vets, and puppy buyers I have dealt with over the years. I hope that my experience can save you from most of the pitfalls so common in the business of breeding and selling puppies. The focus of this report is on the buying of a good quality pet. The purchase of a “show quality” dog is far beyond the scope of what I cover here. There is no reason that you cannot show a “pet quality” dog if you select it carefully, verifying the conformance of both of the parents to breed standards. At the local level, Dog Shows look for grooming and care, obedience and attitude, and for no serious deviations from breed standards. Many dogs bought as pet quality can be trained and groomed to compete locally in these shows. Occasionally, a real winner will come from a lineage containing few or no champions. This report will teach you how to judge a puppy on traits other than cuteness or cuddlyness. The first section discusses some signs to watch for in dealing with a breeder. If you notice any of these warning signs, find another breeder, or at least be very alert. The second section of this report provides you with some ammunition to trap the breeder is he is up to no good. In the last section, I make some recommendations that will help you be more prepared in the entire puppy buying process. At the end, I have attached an appendix that lists the different groups of breeds, some of the breeds in each group and the characteristics of each group. Picking an appropriate breed for you and your lifestyle is the critical first step in having a happy dog ownership experience. This main concept that this report will teach you is this: The only thing that you can learn from an 8-12 week old puppy is how healthy it currently is (and your vet is far better equipped to determine that than you are.) To learn anything about what a puppy will be like when it grows up (this will take less than a year), you must judge from the parents. If you wouldn’t want to own either one of the parents of this puppy, don’t buy the puppy. Most of this report concerns precautions that you can take to be more certain that the breeder is being perfectly honest about the lineage of this puppy. There are some wonderful people in the dog breeding industry. They love their dogs. They do all than can to strengthen their breed by breeding better and better dogs each generation. But, as in all businesses, there are people who are in it just for the money, people who cut corners, break the rules and try to make a fast buck. They are unconcerned with whether you get a healthy dog that is close to the breed standards. They just want your money. You need to know how to spot them, and to avoid them. There are plenty of reputable breeders out there for every breed. With a little planning and effort, your puppy buying decision can be one you can be pleased with for many years.

II. Warning Signs

This section of the report presents some signs you should watch out for in dealing with a breeder. There is no significant oversight of the puppy breeding industry. You have to protect yourself. You are in complete control of the process until you hand over the money. After that, the breeder is in control. Use this fact to your benefit. Before you hand over any money, ask lots of questions, ask to see what you want to see, demand a contract, ask for concessions, anything you want needs to be demanded while your are in charge. Your opportunity to analyze the situation and look for warning signs can come to an end when you hand over money. Even a down payment can turn the tables on you. If you put down fifty dollars, the breeder can clam up. If you become unhappy and back out, he keeps your fifty and sells the puppy to someone else for full price. Keep your money until you are completely sure about the purchase.

a. They offer to meet you somewhere.

This is a big clue that something is up. Breeders hate to have to pack up the puppy (and maybe the one or both of the parents), drive to a parking lot somewhere and wait for a potential customer to show up (if they do!) Why would they do this? To hide something from you! They don’t want you to see the conditions of their kennel, the treatment of their dogs, how many dogs or breeds they have or something else that would clue you in to their operations. If they are intent on keeping you from seeing their operation, they must have something to hide. Avoid them.

b. The dogs don’t know their names.

This may seem like a strange warning, but it is important. If the dogs can’t be called by name, at least one of several things must be true. First, the dogs are not given any attention. They are simply “puppy factories.” Second, The dogs are not very smart (inbreeding?) Who wants a dumb puppy that can’t even learn it’s own name. Third, if the dog can’t be called by name, you can’t be sure that you are being shown the correct Registration Papers. You can’t tell a dog that today her name is Fluffy and tomorrow it will be Lady. She can’t act for you that way. Her name is learned as a puppy and kept for long periods of time. Some tricks a breeder can play involve swapping parents. Calling the parents by name makes it far less likely that they are doing anything like that.

c. The breeder or someone in his family calls a dog by the wrong name.

This is similar to the previous item. You can, as a breeder, decide to call a dog by a different name in order to fraudulently complete the Registration paperwork. If a breeder does this, he or a member of his family will often forget and use the wrong (right?) name. If a breeder or a member of his family calls a dog by the wrong name it may be a simple mistake, but it may also mean that he is switching dogs and their names to manipulate the Registration process. This is a subtle clue, but it may be the only one you get.

d. Multiple males have access to females.

This one is a deal killer. If you see a breeder and notice that multiple males have access to a female, walk away. No one, I mean absolutely no one is going to know before the male dog that a female is in heat. I don’t care if you have a calendar, a computer program or anything else to track the female cycles, the male dog will always be the first to know. The cycles are not always perfect. There is some variation. If the males figure it out first, you will never know for sure who the true sire of the litter is. If there is uncertainty as to the sire (in this generation or others,) the Pedigrees are worthless. You are not really paying money for a dog (you can find many people giving away dogs,) you are paying money for a purebred lineage that indicates that this particular will conform to a standard for this breed. With any uncertainty about lineage, you cannot be sure about anything.

e. The dogs don’t like the owners.

This is a very bad sign. What could it mean? It could mean one or more of these several things. First, it probably means that the dogs get no attention. Obviously you should not support people who mistreat dogs. You can’t think of it as rescuing a puppy from a bad situation. They will only make more puppies. Your only recourse is to report “serious” mistreatment to the authorities or just to avoid supporting “minor” neglect. Don’t give your money to support neglect of dogs! The second thing that it can mean is that a poor temperament has been bred into the dogs. You want to avoid poor breeding. The third thing it can mean is that the person showing you the dogs is not the real owner. If you get caught acting unethically or fraudulently completing Registration paperwork, you can lose your right to register dogs with the AKC. When this happens to some people, the “ownership” of their dogs can be transferred to someone else while they continue to breed puppies. When this other person sells the dogs, the “real” owner raises them. This can explain dogs that seem not to like their owners. They are not really their owners. They only complete the sale to make it legal. Avoid these deals. Nothing good can come from them.

f. The dogs live in cages or small pens.

Many dogs living their entire lives in small cages or pens is a “Puppy Mill.” “Puppy Mills” are the scourge of the dog breeding industry. Real breeders who love their dogs and their breeds detest the “Puppy Mills” that churn out litter after litter of puppies with no concern to improving the breed or minimizing health issues. These dogs are often sold through pet stores. Never buy from pet stores. You simply should not support the penning up or caging of dogs for their entire lives. Dogs have been domesticated and are meant to be our companions, not simply breeders to churn out litter after litter of puppies. Plenty of puppies are available from people who care for their dogs, who play with their dogs, who bathe and brush their dogs. Buy one of these dogs. You can be much more confident that they are healthy, well tempered and well bred. And besides, it’s morally the right thing to do.

You’ll feel better about yourself even if you pay a few more dollars. Twenty, fifty or a hundred dollars saved on a puppy by buying from a “puppy mill” can quickly evaporate with the first vet visit and prescription. Surgeries for knee problems, eye problems or other issues of poor breeding can cost you many hundreds extra.

g. The breeder does not ask you many questions.

A breeder who really loves his dogs and wants the best for them will interview you to see if you are worthy of fine animals like his. He will want to know if you know how to care for them, if you are buying the puppy for yourself of as a gift. A breeder who loves his dogs doesn’t like them to be bought as gifts. He can’t meet the person who will own his dog and cannot really be sure of how well they will be cared for. He will also ask you about the living arrangements of the animal. Have you had dogs before? What happened to them? Do you have others now? Will you allow his “house” breed to live in the house or will you stick it in a pen outside after the new wears off of the puppy? Do you have room to allow his “sporting” breed to run and play? A good breeder will want to know these things.

h. Something changes in what the breeder is saying.

This is one of the more subtle warnings signs to look for. If they tell you something on the phone that turns out to be untrue, be wary. Even if the item seems insignificant, it could be masking something more serious. Some serious deceptions begin to unravel with a minor inconsistency. Write down what they tell you on the phone. Take careful notes when you discuss things with the breeder. A breeder will often tell you on the phone what he thinks will convince you to come buy a puppy. Occasionally he will mix up what he has told you with what he has told other people on the phone. Some of the questions in the next section will help you to trap an unscrupulous breeder. Ask many questions and keep notes. You should visit several breeders before buying a puppy and your notes will be critical in keeping everything straight and making the best decision.

III. Questions to Trap an Unscrupulous Breeder

Your best strategy for making a good puppy buying decision is to ask a lot of questions. I am not a very good question asker. My wife is a master. She drives me up the wall by asking question after question that does not seem to have a purpose. Then occasionally I see the purpose, something will slip out and we will realize that the breeder is lying. If you are not a natural “question asker,” take someone along with you who is. Taking someone along who is not emotionally attached to this decision is actually an excellent strategy and is discussed in the next section. You must see yourself as a detective digging for the truth. Ask the following questions and others you come up.

a. Can we visit your kennel?

Visiting their kennel is essential to making sure everything is on the up and up. If they come up with reasons why you can’t visit the kennel, take a pass. Either the conditions are horrible or something you see will contradict what you have been told. You need to know the real size and standards of the operation before you buy a puppy from a breeder. You must visit where the dogs live to determine this. Pay close attention to sanitary conditions. Notice whether other females have puppies (or milk.) Notice whether the dogs are friendly. A great deal can be learned from a visit to the kennels. My preference is to buy a puppy from someone who has only one male and no more that four or five females. In this situation, the dogs can live together, they can live as family members, they get can care and affection, and can be treated as individuals.

b. Can we see the Registration Papers for all of your dogs?

This one becomes very difficult if you are dealing with a puppy farm with 25 dogs or more. It becomes impossible if the 50 or 100 or more dogs. There is no need to deal with an operation of that size. If they have unregistered dogs around their operation, you should be very wary. Dishonest breeders can substitute unregistered dogs for registered dogs. They can add puppies from unregistered dogs to the litters of registered dogs. They can substitute unregistered dogs for sterile registered dogs. There are many scams they can pull. The bigger the operation, the more opportunities for swapping dogs around they have.

You are buying a bloodline. You are buying champions in the bloodline because that is an indication of conformance to breed standards. If you have questions about the legitimacy of the bloodline, go elsewhere. There are plenty of good places to go. Keep searching, you will find one.

c. Do you have any other puppies?

I don’t fully understand the breeder mindset on this one, but it is a pattern I have noticed over the years. Breeders only talk about the litter of puppies that they are ready to sell. They probably feel that telling you that they have more litters of puppies will make them look like a Puppy Mill or will give you the opportunity to pass up buying a puppy now to buy one from another litter. Puppies are the most valuable to a breeder in the 8-10 week old period and fall in value after that. Why? Most people don’t want to buy an older puppy. Buyers want to raise the dog from the point it is weaned. Cuteness starts falling off quickly after a couple of months. Cuteness sells! Puppies are cute with little care or attention. Dogs require more attention to remain nice looking and clean smelling. They must be bathed, brushed and groomed after they start getting a little older. Breeders hate to keep puppies as their value drops and as they begin requiring more work to keep salable. This is not really true for breeders of “show dogs.” The breeder usually keeps these for a much longer period of time, normally until their features become apparent. The dogs whose features conform highly to standards are sold for thousands of dollars; the lesser ones are usually spayed or neutered and sold for less.

d. What kind of health problems does this breed have?

This is a question that is difficult to handle for breeders who are not serious about the quality of their puppies. By the time you visit a breeder to look at his puppies, you should already have an idea of the types of health problems common in his breed. You will have found them in the research you have done about the breed. Your question is posed to the breeder in order to find out whether he knows enough about his breed to avoid health problems or if he is honest enough to tell you about the problems of the breed.

If he doesn’t tell you about any of the health problems common to the breed, he either doesn’t know or is not being honest with you. You should avoid dealing with him if he refuses to discuss health issues, and his warranty concerning these “known” problems. If he does tell you about the “known” health problems within the breed, you should ask a follow-up question concerning his personal experience with these problems. You can usually get a very good sense of a breeder’s commitment to his breed during a discussion of health issues. Many good breeders become passionate about health issues and how they resent “puppy mills” and their lack of interest in health concerns.

e. Can we see the Pedigree for both parents?

There are two main documents concerning the “purity” of a purebred dog. The first is its Registration. This indicates that the dog is certified by one of the kennel clubs (AKC being the most popular) as coming from a purebred sire and dam. The second is the Pedigree. This is a document that shows the last three or four generations of the puppies lineage. A serious breeder of quality puppies will have the Pedigree for both of the parents of the puppy. You should have a look at these documents. They indicate the number of champions in the lineage of the puppy. The more champions the better. It indicates a line where dogs were bred for quality, where the dogs were shown in competitions and where they were often winners. You want this in the lineage of your puppy. Having champions in the lineage is not enough by itself, but it is a good sign. Look for champions in the lineage, but be more concerned with whether the parents and grandparents are champions. You should also look closely at the feature of the parents, this is more important that the champions in the lineage.

f. How old are your dogs?

This is a question aimed at determining how much the owner is involved in the lives of his dogs. If he doesn’t know off hand the name and age of each dog, he is not very involved with them. They are simply “puppy factories” to him. It will also give you an idea of whether he has raised these dogs from puppies or whether he bought them as adults just for breeding. I just simply prefer to buy puppies from someone whose main focus is owning and caring for his own pets; where selling the puppies is only a sideline. The only drawback to buying from an individual who has little interest in breeding is their lack of knowledge about health issues, breed standards and improving the breed with successive generations. A happy medium can be found. Someone with a small number of dogs, caring for them as members of the family and highly interested in improving the breed is the ideal. You should look until you find them.

g. How many liters have each of these parents had?

This is another question aimed at determining how much the dogs are a part of the lives of the owners versus the owners simply considering them “puppy factories.” Dams can have two liters per year. Many good breeders only allow their females to have one liter per year. Often this can’t be controlled if the animals live together. The male will be the first to know when the female is in heat. It is his business to know. He does it well. Consider the reaction to the question and the answer. They will tell you about the concern of the breeder for his dogs.

h. How long have you been raising this breed?

This question seeks to determine the breeders experience with this breed. How many generations of dogs has he had? This question put with the age of his dogs will indicate whether he raised the dogs from puppies. I prefer breeders where they raised their animals from puppies. They should have been raising this breed for as long as their oldest dog. If you are given an answer less than the oldest dog, a follow-up question should involve how and why they acquired adult dogs for breeding. If they acquired them from another breeder who quit the business, you should have concerns about the quality of the animals and the accuracy of the paperwork. People who sell all of their animals as adults and people who buy their animals as adults are generally interested in the dogs only for making money. You should avoid both of these kinds of people.

i. Have you had other breeds in the past?

This question can lead to interesting discussions about the history of how this individual has come to raise this breed. Some people are committed to one breed for their entire life. The raise the dogs for love and they seek the best for their animals. Other people change breeds every few years and raise whatever is popular (and expensive) at the time. These people have no particular interest in anything other than making money.

IV. Recommendations For A Great Buying Decision

a. Never buy from a Pet Shop.

If you buy a puppy from a Pet Store, you have missed the entire point of this report. You don’t get to see the parents, you learn nothing about the conditions of the kennels, and you don’t get to question the breeders. In short, you are supporting the Puppy Mill industry. PLEASE DO NOT DO THIS!

b. See both parents of the puppy.

If the breeders make any excuse for why you can’t see both parents, walk away. One of the parents died, ran away, is sick, or is visiting his cousins in Albuquerque…..whatever excuse they make. There are way too many wonderful breeders out there for every breed. You don’t have to deal with one where you can’t see the parents. See the parents, hold the parents, and play with the parents. If you don’t like the parents, you won’t like your puppy when he grows up. The appearance of the parents, the alignment of their teeth, their fur consistency, how much they shed, how playful they are, and their energy level are all important things to notice in the parents.

c. When you visit a breeder, ask a lot of questions.

Ask question, after question, after question. If you don’t ask questions well, take someone along who does. The questions should educate you about the breed of dog, this breeder’s experience and knowledge, and important health issues concerning this breeder’s dogs. In addition to learning about breeding and health issues, many questions improve your chances of catching a dishonest breeder in a lie. He wants your money, he will answer questions as long as your continue to ask. If he’s uncomfortable, he may be hiding something.

d. Attend or watch a dog show.

It’s easy to find a dog show to watch. Cable, PBS, and even a video store will have a show you can watch. You could also attend a local show in person. A dog show will help you understand, before you get a dog, how dogs are judged. You will see how breed standards are considered, how important attitude is. It will also give you a great exposure to many different groups and breeds. You will make a better decision about what dog is right for you after you see all the breeds and listen to the discussions concerning those breeds. Even if you are sure of the breed you want, a look at different groups and breeds may change your mind or convince you that you’re right.

e. Get and read a book about your chosen breed before you buy a puppy.

After you are reasonably certain about the breed you want, you need to read a guidebook specifically about that breed. Almost any pet store, large bookstore or library will have a book about most popular breeds. You will live with dog for the next ten years or so, invest an hour or so now to help choose a better dog. Most of the book will be relatively generic, discussing puppy care, grooming, general health issues and such things. Two important chapters will discuss breed standards and health issues for the particular breed. These are important for you when you go shopping for a puppy. You will judge the parents based on the standards and question the breeder concerning his experience with the health issues. Take the book with you. The breeder’s attitude will change when he know you can’t be fooled.

f. Learn the breed standards for the breed you have chosen.

You may not be looking for a champion show dog, but you want it to look like what it is supposed to look like. This means you need to know the breed standards. Have a copy of them when you go shopping for a puppy. Compare the parents to this standard. You will be an educated shopper if you know what you are looking for. Your decision will come out much better.

g. Consider other breeds in the same group.

You will increase you opportunity of finding a dog that’s perfect for you if you expand your search to other similar breeds. Even though a particular dog may seem perfect for you, a different breed in the same group will have some different characteristics that may match you even better. If you are interested in a Pekingese, you may also want to consider a Maltese, a Lhasa Apso or a Shih Tzu. If you are interested in a Irish Setter, you may also consider other Setter, Pointers or Retrievers. They will be similar, will give you more choices of puppies to buy and may also save you some money.

i. Get a vet checkup for the puppy immediately after you buy it.

Most breeders don’t get vet checkups for their puppies. If they did, you would end up getting your own vet check immediately after you buy it, and you would end up paying for one visit in the price of the puppy and another one after. You want your vet to check for any kennel diseases or congenital defects. You also want to get the final shots and you want your vet to get familiar with your puppy. The sooner you get your vet check after you get the puppy, the better the chance you have to work out any health issues with the breeder. If you keep the puppy for a month or so, then find out it has pulmonary or respiratory defects, you will be in a much worse negotiating position with the breeder. Find out right away, within a day or two, and work out any issues right away. If you haven’t become very attached to the puppy, yet, you can make a more rational decision.

j. Get a contract with a refund for health issues.

This is a tough one. Most breeders want to give you a health guarantee with no refund. They will only give you a puppy from a future litter. You will not want to wait for six months to a year, and be subject to his choosing the replacement puppy for you. Your negotiating power evaporates when you hand over the cash. Get a contract that states how health problems will be handled. You will want the option of getting a refund if he doesn’t have another puppy you want. Write a contract by hand if necessary.

k. Get your papers before you leave with the puppy.

You can avoid the hassle of trying to get the papers from the breeder by insisting on getting the papers up front. Ask the breeder when you call if they have the papers ready. If they don’t, find someone else. It’s an added headache you don’t need. When the breeder doesn’t have the papers and it’s time to sell the puppies, it can mean either the breeder is disorganized or that they are having difficulties with the registration organization. If they don’t have the papers yet, they may never get them. Good luck getting your money back!

l. Take someone emotionally uninvolved with you to see the puppy.

Take someone who has no stake in the decision with you to see the puppy. Take a sibling, a parent or a friend. Give them veto power. If they say no to your buying that puppy, back away from the purchase. Take them aside and listen to why they are uncomfortable. Making a good decision to buy a puppy means putting aside emotions and looking at facts. Someone uninvolved can be a great help in doing just that.

m. Don’t buy from the first one or two breeders whose puppies you go see.

A good decision means getting as much information as possible. Making a decision not to buy from the first one or two breeders you visit makes sure that you have the opportunity to see more puppies and gives you the opportunity to see different breeders and kennels. You may miss out on the greatest puppy in the world by going not buying on the first visit, but chances are that seeing several other breeders will help you find a better breeder and a better puppy.

n. Don’t buy a puppy without planning.

Planning the purchase of a puppy is very important. Way too many people go from deciding to buy a puppy to the classified ads. This is the way to disaster. Go from the decision to buy a puppy, to the library. Find out about your breed and see a dog show to find out about other breeds and groups. Visit as many breeders as possible. Decide whether you will be able to keep the dog indoors, whether you will have a fence and how much room the dog will have to live. These affect the breed that is appropriate for you. You can increase the radius from where you live by advanced planning. Increasing from a radius of a one-hour drive to a four-hour drive will greatly increase the number of breeders and puppies you have to choose from. Advanced planning will let you schedule a visit with a breeder combined with other travel such as a vacation.

o. Buy from a breeder who has only one breed.

Breeders who are devoted to the betterment of their breed almost always have only one breed of dog. Those who are in it for the money usually have several breeds. When a breeder has multiple breeds, he must keep the caged or penned separately all of the time to prevent cross breeding. There is no need to deal with these breeders. Find someone else.

p. Decide beforehand whether you want full or limited breeding rights.

There are generally two ways to register a dog, full or limited registration. Full registration means that the dog can be bred and its puppies can also be registered. Limited registration means that the dog is registered, but it’s offspring cannot be registered. Breeders of champion lines of dogs use limited registration to keep the number of competing lines to a minimum. Limited registration is also used to protect breeds from inferior lines of dogs. Breeders can decide which of their lines of dogs can be continued and which cannot. If you are intending to get your dog spayed or neutered, you can accept a limited registration, if you are planning to breed your dog and register the puppies, you must have full registration rights.

q. Visit a breeder before he has puppies ready to sell.

If you plan in advance to buy a puppy, it gives you an opportunity to visit breeders whether they currently have puppies or not. If you find a breeder with the quality of dogs that you like, with breeding standards that you are comfortable with and a clean and healthy kennel, you can leave him your name and number. He will put you on a list to be called when he next has some puppies. This gives you a great advantage over people shopping the classifieds and needing to buy a puppy now. You will get to choose your puppy before the ads are even run.

V. Conclusions

I hope you learned a little something about the dog breeding industry. There are some great people in the dog breeding industry and there are some real crooks. You must watch for the signs and ask the questions to determine which are which. Once you know you can trust the breeder, you must look to the parents of the puppy to see what the puppy will become. Look to the puppy for energy and personality, but look to the parents for what your puppy will become.

Never buy a puppy if you don’t get to see the breeder, his kennels, or the parents of the puppy. This eliminates buying from a pet store on all three counts. One of the biggest mistakes people make is to limit themselves in their search for a high quality puppy. You should consider several breeds, each from several different breeders. You should look over a large geographical area and allow several months for finding the right puppy. Good luck in the purchase of your puppy.

VI. Appendix

Purebred dogs are typically arranged into seven different groups. There are some basic similarities between the various breeds in each group. You should look at the characteristics of each group and determine which best suits you or your families lifestyle. If you already know which breed you want, look at the characteristics of the group that the breed is in and determine whether that is really the right breed. You should also look at other breeds in the same group as the breed you want and consider them.

a. Herding Dogs

Herding dogs were bred for driving livestock. They are easy to train and respond well to voice commands. They are very intelligent. Herding dogs make great pets, but require plenty of space and daily exercise.

Breeds in the Herding Dogs Group include: Australian Shepherd Belgium Sheepdog Border Collie Welsh Corgi Collie German Shepherd Shetland Sheepdog (Sheltie)

b. Hounds

Hounds use their keen senses of sight and/or smell to hunt mammals. There are a wide variety of traits that make different Hounds more or less appropriate for different people. Beagles, Dachshunds, Greyhounds and Blood Hounds are each appropriate for very different people. Breeds in the Hound Group include: Basset Hound Beagle Coonhound Bloodhound Greyhound Irish Wolfhound

c. Non-Sporting Dogs

Non-sporting dogs we not bred for any particular job or no longer serve a working function. Many diverse breeds are found in this group, and all of the non-sporting breeds make great pets. These dogs tend to be gentle and make good companions. Buying A Puppy? - 11 - Breeds in the Non-Sporting Dogs Group include: Bichon Frise Boston Terrier Bulldog Chinese Shar-Pei Chow-Chow Dalmatian Lhasa Apso Poodle

d. Sporting Dogs

Sporting dogs were originally bred for bird hunting. Sporting dogs are classified as spaniels, setters, retrievers or pointers, based on how they hunt. Sporting dogs are very intelligent and love to be trained. Sporting dogs make great pets if you have the time, space and energy to entertain them. These are active and playful animals. Breeds in the Sporting Dogs Group include: Brittany Spaniel Cocker Spaniel English Setter English Springer Spaniel German Shorthaired Pointer German Wirehaired Pointer Golden Retriever Gordon Setter Labrador Retriever Pointer Weirmaraner

e. Terriers<

Terriers were originally bred for hunting small animals such as foxes. They are generally mid-sized dogs. Terriers are known for good vision, enthusiasm, bravery and perseverance. Terriers make excellent pets, but tend to have plenty of energy and need daily exercise. Breeds in the Terrier Group include: Bull Terrier Irish Terrier Manchester Terrier Miniature Schnauzer Scottish Terrier (Scottie) Skye Terrier Welsh Terrier West Highland White Terrier (Westie)

f. Toy Dogs

Toy dogs are very small dogs, almost always kept as companions. Royalty originally prized many of thetoy breeds. Toy breeds tend to be alert and playful. They are well suited to living in apartments or houses with little lawn. Breeds in the Toy Dog Group include: Brussels Griffon Japanese Chin Maltese Miniature Pinscher Papillon Pekingese Pomeranian Pug Shih Tzu Toy Poodle Yorkshire Terrier (Yorkie)

g. Working Dogs

Working dogs are large, solidly built dogs that pull, rescue, and guide. They tend to make excellent watchdogs. Although most of these breeds are very powerful, they can make great pets and they are intelligent and highly trainable. Breeds in the Working Dogs Group include: Akita Alaskan Malamute Boxer Bullmastiff Doberman Pinscher Great Dane Rottweiler St. Bernard Samoyed Siberian Husky Standard Schnauzer


Navzer B
Hey Man,,,, Thnx Lovely piece of information you have collated....

By: Navzer B | 14 May 2009

really nice & informative article to read...

By: Runni | 15 May 2009

hey hard boy from where you copy paste this [akc]

but u did nice
next time pls read blog carefully and do amendment as per the country organisation

By: MAVI KENNEL | 15 May 2009

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